Sunday, February 28, 2010

The Razor's Edge: Superstition Mountains

Date: Feb 27, 2010
Destination: Praying Hands Pillar (Superstition Mountains)
Who: Justin and Leonard
Details: I stole this route description from Climbing Magazine...describes it quite well :)
- Begin via a runout fourth-class gully to the notch below the arĂȘte proper. Pitch two offers slippery climbing past a few vintage bolts and fixed pins — stranding you at the two-bolt belay of Chicken Ledge. A look up at the third (crux) pitch ties your stomach in knots: the arĂȘte steepens, and fixed gear becomes less inspiring. You’ll hang onto the airy spine, using slippery volcanic edges, your only consolation the occasional nut or cam

...of course, all I could think of after reading this was "where do I sign up...lets go" :)


The longer I live in Arizona near the Superstition Mountains, the more they grow on me. I really enjoy biking out to them, hiking/camping, rock climbing, and just seeing them each day. The best part is being able to jump in the truck and be hiking at Lost Dutchman State Park (soon to be closed in June...a story for a different day...but very disappointing.)


The Praying Hands are a desert pillar just to the north side of the main cliff group. From the ground, the shortest vertical section it is 160' feet tall. I have read and dreamed about climbing this for the 10 years I have lived in Arizona. Finally I have a buddy who is crazy enough to head up it with me. The route is called the "Razor's Edge" rated 5.6 ... and the name fits! The 2nd and 3rd pitch are about 2-3 feet wide...with 100+ feet of vertical drop on both sides..."WIGGY." There are several old bolts, pitons, very few places for Trad gear and some bomber new bolts at the belay points.




Justin and I arrive at the trail head around 2:00pm...plenty of time to gear up and hike in...climb and get back before dark right?...Wrong...in typical style.


Pulled this graph from my Garmin 305 when we got back home. Hike in is about 1.5 - 2 miles in...some elevation gain but nothing killer.


Hiking up to the hand. You can see the lone pillar "Praying Hands" on the left of the ridge line.


Took us about 45 minutes to make it to the base.




I was gearing up for the lead as Justin worked the iPhone picture editing magic...This is my rock climbing glamor shot...all I need is some funky big hair...and that ain't happening on the barren ground I call my scalp.

*** Before I go any farther here...I must warn that we didn't take to many photo's or any video. We spent most of the time wondering what the h@#$ we were doing...I thought quite often "I can't believe I thought this would be fun...this is phreaking scary...not many places for protection...man that bolt looks rusty...this is stupid...etc etc." of course when we were at the top and back on tera firma, it was "phreaking awesome" and I would totally do it again...The holds were good and the climbing was relatively easy...but the exposure played a few games with our heads.


I combined the first and second pitch into one long 160ft pitch. The rope drag was brutal towards the end but the holds were pretty solid and not to hard to find. This belay point is called "Chicken Ledge"...not to be confused with "pee your pants ledge" (but both of us nearly did :)


Wonder why they call it Chicken Ledge? You straddle this 2 foot wide ledge like the saddle on a horse...only there is 100+ feet of air between you and the ground on both sides...lol.


I am belaying Justin up to Chicken Ledge


Some other climbers on the route...better perspective of the belay and climbing the last pitch.


Ughhh...you should have seen it in color...there wasn't much in my pale face during this lead. A friend of ours said this last pitch was "WIGGY." We kind of laughed and thought it can't be that bad...it's only rated 5.6...well, I have a full dose understanding of what a "WIGGY" lead is...and will pay much closer attention to anyone describing a route I plan to do when they mention that term.


I was clipped into some "bomber" ancient lost arrow pitons here...I figure what the heck, get out the camera and take a picture back towards Justin....phreaking crazy!


These have probably been here a few years...give or take 50. There was a good few inches for my feet and a nice bucket hold.


Looking West across the valley as the sun is setting...time to get down.


Looking East back at the Supes...some cool looking caves.


Justin graciously took the first rappel. I was still a little frazzled from leading this crazy climb...and needed a few more deep breaths :)


A double rope rappel 160+ feet to the ground...took a while to get down :)

We packed it up pretty quick and made it back to the truck about 7:00pm...glad there was a full moon! It took us about 5 hours from truck to truck to knock off this climb. It was definitely an incredible adventure that I won't soon forget. Hopefully the post traumatic stress is over and I will sleep well again tonight:) as always, looking forward to "what's next."

Monday, January 4, 2010

Mazatzal Mountains - Browns Peak

Date: Jan 1-2, 2010
Destination: Browns Peak (7657 feet - Tallest in Maricopa County)
Who: Justin and Leonard
Details: "4 Peaks" is a group of 7000-foot peaks about 40 miles from Mesa AZ. At 7657 feet, Browns peak is the tallest. It is 2000+ feet higher than Payson and does get some snow each year. It is mostly quartzite rock and is decent for climbing. The hike is approximately 5 miles round trip with 2500 feet elevation gain.

I have been looking at "4 Peaks" from Mesa for the past 8 years. I have camped in the area several times with our local Boy Scout Troop but have never made time to summit Browns Peak. In true "Storage Geek Hiking" style, Justin and I decided that the first day of January would be a fine time to see just how "challenging" this hike/climb would be...with the research that I had completed, I knew there would be several small sections of climbing and lots of steep scrambling with some good exposure towards the end. To top it off, while most people are sleeping off their hangovers...we are living the dream :)

*** For a quick video highlight of this climb...check out Justin's work: http://drivespike.com/Four_Peaks_ORV4.html !!!Phreaking cool Justin!!! Seriously...check it out...




Google Earth View via Garming 305...route from trail head to our camp at 4 peaks saddle


Elevation gain over distance...trailhead to saddle area.


Google Earth view from saddle looking towards the "chute" to summit Browns Peak.


Picture of Browns Peak with the red line following the summit route

Justin and I left Mesa around 1pm. It is a 30 minute drive to the 4 peaks turn off and about an hour drive on rough dirt road to the trail head. It took us an hour and a half due to....


If you have never driven 4 peaks road on a holiday weekend...it is a jeep/quad/dirtbike speed fest. I must have swore several times that if some idiot flys around one of these corners and hits my truck I am going to beat them...if they aren't dead already...well, as we are coming around a corner a jeep rounds at the same time going way to fast. I mention to Justin that people are phreaking crazy out here... as I am watching in my side view mirror...sure enough, I see him fish tail his 4x4 and go right of the edge of the road. There is probably a good several hundred foot drop at this point but luckily loose dirt and shrubs caught him. We stopped and backed up...Justin claims the look in this guys eyes were priceless as his jeep was teetering on one front and one back wheel and I am sure he was wishing he had brought clean underwear...before I would tow him out though, I had to grab a quick picture as proof :)...got to love it...2 wheel drive tacoma pulling a 4x4 jeep out of the ditch!!! IDIOT!!!


After several more near misses, we finally make it to the trail head and gear up for the hike in. It is only 2 miles but it is already 3:30pm and will be dark by 5ish...

*** Side note...there is a alternate "rock climb" route to the summit of Browns Peak called the Lady Bug route. It is a low class 5 "trad" climb meaning easy climbing but no bolts. We brought our rope and trad gear and figured we would make a decision once we got there if we would climb or not. Turns out with time and conditions the hike would be technical enough...but we will be back!


Justin with his lucky shirt...the last time he wore this hiking we were caught 800 feet up in the pitch dark on Weavers Needle...and as always "it is all fun and games until someone looses a nut."

Almost at the saddle...top left you can see Browns Peak.


Justin is starting to make quite the iphone photo editor...here are a few of his pics from this trip:



Made it to the saddle in a little over an hour. Tent is set up and anchored down tight...we had heard that there can be crazy wind here so we weren't taking any chances.


Justin prepping the fire...kerosene and road flare matches do the trick every time. Temp is about 41 degrees and the ground is frozen pretty solid.


Ok...when "big agnes" (company that sold our sleeping bags and pads) recommend that for winter camping the "insulated" core requires an additional pad...believe them. The cold from the ground went right through the "insulated core" and froze us...long cold night...but now we know. Picture of me prepping the stove/keeping warm...breakfast of champions...instant oatmeal and hot chocolate.


Good Morning Browns Peak...Winter 2010


On our way to the saddle, we past several groups of people who had failed to make it to the summit. They said the chute was loaded with snow and ice and it was way to dangerous...with these reports we decided to not only bring the ice axe but bring the rope and climbing gear as well...that way we could protect the steep sections if we felt to exposed. Turns out we carried it all to the top for our "peace of mind" and didn't need it...made for cool pictures though :)




Looking up towards the route we will climb from the saddle.


One of my favorite pictures from the hike. Looking back towards the Superstition Mountains and lakes.


Heading up.


Great view up the summit route


Started to warm up a bit so we stored some warm gear under a rock and headed up. Man it feels good to actually use the old ice axe after many years of it collecting dust in the garage.


Working the rust of the ice axe


Turns out the hikers who turned back weren't just pansies...there really was snow and ice all the way up the chute.


Video of Justin Climbing


1/2 way up...looking back down. Little steep and slick...



Using the trusty axe to cut steps into the snow/ice and clear the holds.


Justin coming up to the summit...phreaking cool picture. Just a bit of exposure at his back...looks worse than it really is.




At the top of Browns Peak!


Summit Views


What a great morning...glad Justin carried the rope all the way up:)


Zoomed in at 10x optical...back to camp.


If you watch only one video, this should be the one...shows the true feeling of the height of Browns Peak from the saddle.


Was a beautiful clear day...could see 150 miles to Humphrey's peak in Flagstaff!


Looking down at Roosevelt Lake.



On our way back down the chute, there is a nice little notch where the sun in shining and a nice little tree is growing. I take the rope and tie it in as a backpack. It wasn't too bad of a down climb and we didn't end up needing it.


Tying on the "rope backpack" at the notch.


Video heading back down


Made it back to the trail head.

Thursday, December 10, 2009

The Supes: Flat Iron

Date: Dec 5-6, 2009
Destination: Flat Iron (Lost Dutchman State Park, AZ)
Who: Justin, Julia, Jeff, Jeonard
Details: Flat Iron is a short tough hike in the Superstition Mountains about 10 miles from my home. Hard work, gorgeous views, great exposure...incredible camp site!

Another "storage geek extreme hiking" adventure...well, there is a lot more extreme hiking out there than what we do here, but compared to data center's, storage array's, and grey cubicle farms, just about anytime we get outdoors it feels extreme :) I've hiked the "Syphon Draw" route several times to the Flat Iron and have always wanted to camp on top. Loree and I bike to trail head at least once a week...I always check these routes out...and finally found a group of weirdo's that would backpack this route with me! Thanks Justin, Julia, and Jeff.

** side comment: Jeff and Julia leave for Mt. Kilimanjaro "19,331 feet" in 2 weeks. This trip was a good opportunity to re-test all of their gear...and quads :) Rock on Guys and Good LUCK!!!

** side comment #2: Thanks for the blog help Loree!!! The picture collages turned out awesome!


I think Google Earth is one of the coolest pieces of software ever!! - I use the Garmin 305 to track our exact route, hiking time, speed, elevation change, grade, and distance...then export it to Google Earth and capture some 3D screen shots...yes, we are super geeks.


As you can see, this hike is pretty much UP. From trail head to the Flat Iron you gain 2,789 feet...most of that is in the last 1 mile.


Exact elevation gain plotted over distance...thanks Garmin Training Center.


Starting out.


Syphon Draw trail...at the top right is the Flat Iron
Most of these pictures were taken on Justin's iPhone! crazy...if he can get this good of pics with his phone, I am excited for him to suck it up and start packing the D-SLR!!


Left to Right - Leonard, Justin, Jeff, Julia.




After you pass through "syphon draw" towards the Flat Iron...things get really steep and rugged. "Hey, I got an email!" Yes, Jeff left is Bluetooth headset on...so comfortable he didn't realize he still had it on...lol. Nothing like scrambling up through desert cliffs and still getting 3G coverage :)



This proves I really thought we were closer to the top than we were...everyone asked me several times how much farther we had to go...I would always say just 20 more minutes...at least 3 or 4 times...towards the end I picked up this log for firewood. I packed it quite a ways before realizing we weren't that close to the top...put it down for the next time we head up there.




Ok...if you follow my blog at all, you will know that when Julia/Justin/Jeff and I get together, it is usually not your average hiking trip. Once again, we are not at our camping spot before dark...although, sunset is beautiful.




Ahhhh...8 servings of Mountain House Chicken and Rice for the 4 of us!!! Man that was good...temp is in the high 30's, wind is blowing 10-20 mph, moon is coming up, and a great view of the city...phreaking cool!


What a night. Justin and Julia found that the 1$ hand warmers last 8+ hours and keep a sleeping bag really warm! Despite the wind, rain, sleet, hail, snow...those hand warmers made for a decent night. Not a lot of sleep...but at least we were warm. We still believe that our buddy Joe was in a drum circle praying to his Pagan god's that it would storm on us :)


5-10 feet close to the edge would make a killer base jump! One of the sweetest camping spots I have ever been in!




Have you have heard the old saying "bright eye'd and bushy tailed?" This is what it isn't!!! Notice the large bags/wrinkles under Justin's eyes...very funny!



Julia was having a good morning...if she only knew how the pancake breakfast would turn out...she probably would have slept in a bit more.


Ok, in my defense...I cooked pancakes in the beartooths with no problem! I brought 2lbs of pancake batter, a can of pam spay, and maple syrup. I was prepared!! Turns out the aluminum pan conducted heat a little too quickly, mixed the batter to thin, and pancake batter absorbs pam spay really fast...no matter how much I sprayed on the pan :( Thus... SCRAMBLED PANCAKES...I guess we were all hungry enough we just ate it anyway... LOL


View looking off the Flat Iron towards Apache Junction


Jeff and Julia, packed up and ready to head out. Scrambled Pancake smiles on their face! Summit hoodoo's in the background.


Wouldn't be a "storage geek extreme hike" with out Justin's "Short Bus" wave! I pulled these pic's of the video...took a while to step through each frame to find the worst/best clips :)


If you haven't checked out any of the videos...this one has a great view off the Flat Iron!


Heading back to the valley...just a few more yards and then you head down...down...down to the left.


Not an easy hike down. The rocks were super slick...making it much more difficult to hike out.


Justin 1/2 way down the trail, view back up towards the Flat Iron.


If you like beautifully maintained trails with joggers and kiddo's...this is not your trail. Add hiking back down in rain and sleet = great time. Took us 3 hours to hike up...3.5 hours to hike out.


Contimplating getting down through the steep wet rock in Syphon Draw...everyone fell/slid at least once. Julia show's everyone her war wounds to prove it...and she does have a few :)


Heading down into Syphon Draw. A bit farther down I make the comment that "man this is slick for me...must just be my shoes." At that moment Julia's feet slide right out from under her and she lands pretty hard...great timing Julia!


Good pic's and great scenery.



Another great backpacking trip! What an adventure...all the great components...crazy weather, some exposure, night hiking, and good friends. Whats Next???