Date: Sept 3-5, 2009 Destination: Lake Mary Montana (Beartooth-Absoraka Wilderness) Who: Joachim and I Details: Lake Mary is part of the Beartooth wilderness near Red Lodge Montana. This area reminds me Glacier National Park...incredibly beautiful but rugged country. Many alpine lakes, great fly fishing, and some tough/gorgeous backpacking! Lake Mary is a 10 mile round-trip hike...the first 4 miles are a gradual climb with the last mile gaining about 1200 feet.
I think I have said it earlier but the Beartooth-Absoraka Wilderness is definitely one of my favorite places on the planet. Thanks to my sweet wify I was able to get another chance this year to head back to Montana with a good friend, Joachim, for some backpacking. We were able to get direct flights on Allegiant Air (Mesa AZ to Billings MT...non-stop.) My brother Nate wasn't able to head out with us this time...but played taxi at the airport, bought us breakfast, and let me borrow his Thomas and Thomas fly rod/reel and fly's :) Yeah, I owe him!
Google Earth view of Lake Mary and Rock Creek Canyon...
Joachim and I made it to the West Fork of Rock Creek trail head around noon and geared up to head out. During the 10 mile drive in we saw the results of a large forest fire that had charred everything living and left and inch or 2 of ash.
Heading out...3 days in the Beartooths :)
Fishing pole, xtra gear...3 day pack at 25lbs! Now if I could just lose another 25lbs...that would cancel out the backpack all together!
One of the "roaring" waterfalls on Rock Creek. The guide book for this trip did tend to exaggerate the descriptions here...but I guess if it was in early spring this place would really be roaring.
Completed the first 4 miles...stopped to top off our camelbak's in prep for heading up to Lake Mary...1200 in a mile...not terrible but definitely a lung buster for those of us living near sea level. Altitude now here is about 8500 feet.
MSR Hyperflow Water Filter...filters about 3 liters a minute! Much faster than any of the other filters I have used...and we didn't get sick :)
1/2 way up the switch back's.
Made it to Lake Mary...camp is set up and we are getting ready to cook up some Mountain House Beef Strog...good stuff.
Dinner is done, camp is setup...time for fishing!
Day 2 - Climbed up a ridge near our camp, exploring around and looking for a good picture point for our lakes and campsite.
Not sure how this was our only picture of the rock cairn on the saddle near Lake Mary...sorry Joachim...but it is critical that the blog viewers see the before and after pictures :)
We had some time to kill and this little rock cairn was just not what it should have been. We decided to get back to our manly roots and make a big rock pile...lol...
Finished!
If you look close on the saddle, you can see the cairn...cool.
Joachim's first trout "miss" on a fly rod! He did almost hook me though...guess I shouldn't film to close behind someone fly fishing :)
Joachim's first trout on a fly rod.
Day 3 - After breakfast, more fishing, and cleaning up...time to head out. What a great buddy...let me take 5 or 6 pictures with sunscreen on my nose and lip.
Catching a few more trout in Rock Creek on the way back to the trail head. Water was a bit nippy...but couldn't feel my feet after a few minutes anyway :)
Wait, wait...let me adjust my low riders before you take the picture :)
Ahhh...better :)
Well...that's it. Good friends, backpacking, fly fishing, rock piling...and no distractions! What's next???
It is a nice Saturday afternoon here in the Phoenix area today...only about 110-112 degrees outside. This kind of weather really gets me amped for getting up to Montana this coming week and spending a few days in the Beartooth-Absoraka Wilderness. The forecast for Thur-Sun is High's of 70 and lows of 30...sheesh...can't wait!!!
Lightweight backpacking has been a goal of mine for several years. I think it began on a famous Zito brother week long camp out...packing 50-65 lbs for many miles in the Bitteroots or Beartooths...either way, I have been looking into it "obsessing" over it for a while now. Since today was a stay in the house or jump in the pool day...I got out the gear, weighed each peice and took some pictures. I have gone from 50-65 lb fully loaded pack for 3-6 days backpacking down to 22 lbs...here is how I did it. New gear for me is the REI-Flash pack and Big Agnes Tent. With these 2 peices of gear alone I saved 8lbs from my 4 seasons Sierra Designs tent and 5,700ci Dana Designs Pack. I bought a new stove (msr - pocket rocket... 3 0z $39) and just really went through all of the things I had been bringing backpacking. There was quite a bit I could live comfortably with out...some things that I already had that could be lightened...and some items that would cost too much...but that I would buy anyway :)
Food and water will vary for any backpacking trip but I find that if there is frequent water, why carry 100 oz with you at all times...drink ton's at each water stop and then fill your camel back 1/2 way full for the next stretch. Food can be all over the place for weight...I plan for about 10-16 ounces for food a day...mostly freeze dried, Cliff Bars, oatmeal, pancakes, trail mix, jerky...etc etc... Planning for the weather is also a big one. I found that my old Ski jacket weighs almost 3 lbs without a heavy fleece liner...the 12 oz Gortex rain shell with layers underneath should be fine for just about all 3 seasons camping. I learned the hard way with rain jackets...Gortex is the only way...Marmot Precip "fabric" and the other lower end brands will do good for about an hour in rain...then saturates.
Fully packed with the base gear and additional gear (12.5 lbs) ...minus fuel, camel back and food. It is just barely 1/2 full...so I guess the gear takes up about 1500 ci. Still plenty of room for everything I need...along with the video camera.
While perusing REI and trying to build up the nerve to pay 300 bones for a 3 lb tent...I was talking to one of the sales dudes. He said that he doesn't use a compression sack for his tent/rain fly...he just packs his mattress and compressed sleeping bag...then packs the tent/fly into all the loose areas. I found this to work great and takes better advantage of available space.
So yes, I am a gear nut and really enjoy getting outdoors. I tested this setup (without the new pack) on my Humphrey's peak over nighter and it worked great...(although, I did not bring enough warm clothes...) I have made a few adjustments and am just about ready to hit the trail once again in Montana :)
If you are buying gear...I recommend the following places. You can save a ton of cash on "slightly blemished" or discontinued colors...etc etc...fully functional gear
Date: August 14-15, 2009 Destination: Humphreys Peak - Flagstaff Arizona Who: Julia, Jeff, Justin, Auxanna...(I am sure I spelled that wrong.) Details: Arizona's highest peak at 12,637 feet. It is in a group of old volcanic peaks known as the San Francisco Peaks. Approximately 9 miles round trip with 3,300+ feet of elevation gain starting from the "Snow Bowl-Humphreys Peak Trailhead.
GPS mapped this route from the trail head...as you can see, it is pretty much up all the way to the top.
Front Row Left to Right: Auxanna, Julia, Jeff
Back Row Left to Right: Justin and myself
Several friends of mine hiked this peak a few months ago as training for climbing Kilimanjaro. They said that it was a great hike and they would really like to do it again...but that they would like to backpack in several miles and then hike to the summit the next day. With that idea we planned a quick weekend backpacking trip...to cut out a little early from work, drive to Flag, backpack in and summit/come home on Saturday :)
"It would have been better"...if we could have cut out of work a little early...but it was not to be. Of course a critical work issue kept us all there until after 5:30...we then met at Julia's house to get organized and head out to Flag. We reached the trail head about 8:30pm for a little night hiking. Lucky for us...it was another adventure. Being that it was Julia's first time backpacking/camping ever!!!...we had to make it a memorable experience :)
Julia gearing up for her first backpacking trip
Finally on the trail...not sure how I got stuck holding someone's pack.
Julia had the brightest headlamp of all of us...probably 1,000,000 candle power. After the 4th or 5th time of shining it in "Gentlemen Justin's" eyes while talking...he threatened..."if you shine that in my eye's one more time I will punch you in the face" :)
After about 2.5 hours of hiking and enjoying the dark, we made it to our campsite. Justin got the fire going while I fired up the stove and boiled up water for the mountain house meals.
First backpacking fire with her husband Jeff.
Getting ready for lights out...1:30am.
Justin got a good "mountain" morning pic of Julia and Jeff. Julia still has the towel on her hair from a great refreshing shower...(quite the tent.)
Auxanna met us at camp early in the morning to hike with us to the top.
Not sure what Justin's deal is...but that is 2 trips in a row with his famous "short bus wave."
Julia, Justin, and I taking a quick break at the saddle just above the tree line...things are beginning to get a bit windy...
The last push to the summit...what a great time. For the past hour we have been hiking in 30-40 mph winds...now they are gusting to 80 mph...people are being knocked over...girls are crying and covering their ears...Justin is laughing so hard his sunglasses fill up with tears.
12,637 feet...highest altitude I have hiked to. Nice for us other hikers had built these rock walls to shield us from the wind. Felt like a sand blaster up there with the dirt/gravel blowing around.
You can do some crazy things in 80mph wind
My hair really gets to be a hastle in this crazy wind...
Now that Julia has summitted Humphreys twice...Kilimanjaro no problem :)
Date: Sept 3-6
Destination: Beartooth-Absoraka Wilderness
Details: Will be hiking "the Beaten Path" through the Beartooths. It is supposed to be one of the most scenic routes in this mountain range...and very popular. We will be backpacking 26 miles in 3 days (2 nights.) There are 14 lakes and several large waterfalls along the trail, so we should get some more amazing pictures. We will be pushing it to do this route in such a short time but should be worth it.
The Beartooth-Absoraka National Park has quickly become one of my most favorite places on the planet! (Just ask Loree...I can't get this place out of my head!!! Thx again babe for sending me off to my Montana Roots again this year!!!) It is very similar in scenery to Glacier National Park but with significantly less people. In-fact, on a 6 day backpacking trip there in 2007, my brother and I crossed paths with almost as many mountain goats as we did hikers...(5 hikers and 4 mountain goats:) The "Beaten Path" route is much more common and popular but it is that way for a reason. Check out the map below...there are over 14 back country lakes with great fishing...several waterfalls and incredible scenery! Most of the guide books and trip reports I have read say that you should plan 5 days to a week to complete the trip...we have 3 days. There won't be a lot of time for exploring all the side trails and summits but should make for some good stories when we get back home :)
This video was taken at the top of the Beartooth Pass just out of the NE corner of yellowstone on-route to Red Lodge Montana. We were just there as part of the great Zito Road Trip 2009. Loree has done another incredible job of documenting Zito Life on her blog.
The following pictures are from our 2007 backpacking trip...to give an idea of what the Beartooths look like.
Date: June 16-21, 2009 Destination: Smith River - Launch near White Sulphur Springs Montana Details: Remote 60 mile float trip with public river access only at Camp Baker (put in) and Eden Bridge (take out.) River is located between the Big & Little Belt mountain ranges. We spent 5 nights camping, fly fishing, and hiking along the river. All supplies/food were carried on our rafts.
**note** I may add several pictures after this blog entry...I have not collected pictures from Nate or Shannon's camera yet...I am sure they have some great ones as well.
Approximately 7000 applications are submitted for the 2009 float season...560 permits are issued. Nate (my brother,) Shannon (Brothers good friend,) and I have been entering this lottery for the past several years. The Smith River is extremely popular due to the amazing scenery, remoteness, and fly fishing. It is remote...in that once you launch the boat's at Camp Baker, there is no public access to the river until you have gone 60 miles.
- View from Google Earth...one of the Smith River canyons we floated through.
Tuesday - Day 1 Made it to Camp Baker Tuesday around noon. We signed in and discovered a few surprises...we would not be able to begin the float until Wednesday morning and there would actually be 6 groups floating the river each day...not 3 (each group can consist of 15 people.) As you can see by all the cars in the background, there were more people on the river than we had hoped there would be. Because this area of Montana has so much rain over the past several weeks, the water was really murky...visibility into it was probably only 12-24 inches.
After signing in and talking with the ranger, we set up camp and just hung out and prepped for getting on the river the next morning.
Wednesday - Day 2 Wednesday morning we had the ranger give us the "orientation" and we chose the 4 campsites that we would be staying at. Each designated camping site was right by the river, had a fire pit, and latrine...
Weather was great! It was blue skies and 60-70 degrees all day.
- After an hour or 2 of some quality fly fishing instruction from Shannon on his raft, Johnathan (brother) and I buddied up for the rest of the 5 days on river. This picture is me trying to get the blood knot correct...(tying 2 pieces of fly leader together.)
- Campsite number 1. My tent and Nate's raft in the back ground. We had just started to get deeper into the canyon. Several of my friends know that I was permanently scarred by the movie "Deliverance" ...and warned me that 6 days in the Montana back country, on a river, could get scary...they said I should just run if I start to hear any banjo music :)
- Johnathan on the left, Nate on the right...both younger brothers.
- It was quite a hike up the hill and on to a little meadow to get to the latrine. If I would have known the view was going to be this good, I would definitely have brought my book and took my time! This was a huge meadow and you can see the nice purple/white toilet. You have a 200+ yard view all around and can even see a little of the river :) very funny!
- Songs and poetry could be written about this I am sure!
- Backpacking will never be the same after this trip. Because we had rafts and several great coolers...we were able to eat like kings! Yes, the above picture is Shannon's grill...Nate and Amber (Nates wife) bought and prepped all the food for this trip! Tonight was bacon wrapped prawns, scallops and salad with croutons. Mountain House freeze dried lasagna will just not cut it in the back country again...Nate and Shannon have destroyed for life any enjoyment that I will ever get from backpacking food :)
Thursday - Day 3 Got a little late start but still had a great day on the river. Because of the recent rain in the surrounding area, the water was pretty muddy. The fishing wasn't so great but everything was beautiful. The landscape looked almost manicured with all the shades of green, flowers, and trees. Weather once again was amazing...60-70 degrees all day long.
- 1st fish of the trip for me. This Little rainbow picked up my dry fly (elk hair caddis) after it had lost it's float and had sunk. Not exactly how I prefer to "dry fly" fish but on this trip, I will take a fish any way I can get it...they were very few and far between.
- Picture of me holding the "dink fish" as Nate and Shannon refer to them...basically describes a stupid fish that will just eat what ever is near it...regardless if it matches the specific bugs that would be hatching at the time.
- Little closer view of this dink fish taken with our underwater camera.
- We had some great views of the local wildlife...unfortunately, my brother Johnathan has uncontrollable urges to chase anything that will hold still for less than 30 seconds...see pictures below :)
- I think these young geese will have great stories to tell their children about the crazy human chasing them through the marsh :)
- Too much excitement for one day...
- Proof he can't control himself...here is a picture of him chasing a moose in a lake in the Bitteroot mountain range of Montana...2005 Zito Brother backpacking trip :) Please do not try this at home...or anywhere else.
- Well, getting closer to nature has really paid off for him. He catches a 16-17 inch brown trout that almost gets away from him before I can get a proof...or a picture :)
- Luckily he was able to hang onto it for a great picture.
- If you look close on the bottom right, you can see my fishing down the river a ways. The cliffs, caves and scenery on this trip were truly amazing.
- Meal for Day 2 on the river? ... T-Bone steaks, baked potatoes, and salad :) Man, Nate and Shannon can cook!!
Friday - Day 4 Another great day on the Smith! 50-70 degrees all day...incredible views and some great hiking!
- Shannon (left), Johnathan (middle,) Nate on right. Boats are loaded up and we are ready to head out.
- Several areas here made me really wish I would have brought the climbing gear...but thoughts of a broken leg and 2 days to paddle down a river for help...brought enough common sense to me to leave the gear at home.
- Yes...one of the most beautiful places on the planet...when it is Johnathan's turn to fish and mine to row...he breaks out a book to read :) I don't think I will ever let him live this one down!
- We had seen lots of limestone caves along the river thus far. We finally decided to pull over and take the short easy hike up to a few.
- Well...distances can be deceiving. We hike almost straight up for 800-1000 feet to reach this one. Cave doesn't go back in to the cliff very far but it did make for some great pictures.
- Looking out of the cave back down on the Smith.
- Johnathan back in about as far as we could get.
- Looking out of the cave again...down on the Smith.
- On our way back down we took some time to check out this old trappers/hunters cabin. Needs a little repair...
- Yes, the Smith river would have been incredible dry fly fishing if the water would have been clearer. There were several hatches almost every day...Early Morning Dunn, Evening Dunn, Blue Winged Olives etc etc...Here is a picture of one that landed on my fly rod.
- Finally caught a nice size brown.
- Looking up river...amazing canyons, great water...and 4 days of stubble...
- Something I haven't seen in Montana ever...pelican's. Before Johnathan could chase them, they took off.
- Some pictures of camp. Nate and Shannon making up dinner.
- Finally broke down this day and everyone jumped in the river to clean up...definitely cold but felt great!
- Yes, I remembered to take a picture after I had already started eating :) Tonight for dinner, Italian grilled chicken, corn and flavored rice.
- Friday night we started getting heavy rain. This is a picture looking out the window of my tent's rain fly.
Saturday - Day 5 Still raining :) Rained all day off an on...pretty hard at some times.
- Paid $196 for this rain gear. Supposed to be lite weight and high quality. Well, it was lite weight and rainproof for about 2 hours...then the rain saturated parts of the pants and jacket...eventually getting me wet. I don't recommend the Marmot Precip jacket of the REI rain pants...very dissapointing. Luckily it only really rained 1 day of the trip...otherwise it could have been ugly :)
- More rain on the river
- Shannon thought of just about everything. He brought a nice little tarp that kept us dry during the showers.
- Dinner on day 5? 2lb RibEyes with thick cut pork chop appetizers!
Sunday - Day 6 Basically this day we just fished on the remaining 13 miles to the take out at Eden Bridge.
- Final take out...Nate's Z & Z Seal Coating truck and the boat.
Summary: Had an incredible time. It was great to turn off all electronics...no cell phone, laptop or work...and hang out with some Zito Brothers...and Shannon (almost a family member.) Getting back to Montana at least once a year keeps me sane while living in the Phoenix area and working in the IT field. The floating was better than any I have ever done. Camping was great and scenery was definitely worth the trip alone. The fly fishing wasn't nearly as good as we had hoped but all the other great aspects of this trip make up for it. Now that I have done it once, I would really like to make it a family trip...maybe done in 3 nights instead of 4.
